Potential Problem Possible Reasons Fix Check coil with ohmmeter. A range close to 3 to 4 ohms should be present at an ambient coil temperature of 21°C / 70°F Replace coil. Change battery or coil to meet your requirement. Replace coil. If straight bore, air gap can be readjusted. If unit has set screws, bottom out armature hub against field then back off to .1” and retighten set screws. If spacer on straight bore, reduce width of the spacer. If taper bore clutch, tap on armature cover to close gap. Re-adjust according to air gap adjustment procedure. Replace clutch. Put in key. Replace clutch and determine why it slipped. Coil open or shorted. Check coil voltage to make sure it is compatible with the voltage coming in. (If voltage is too high, this could cause the coil to burn out.) Burnt out coil caused by frictional contact (flange mounted clutches, rotor strike). If so, coil will be discolored, can be cracked, burnt or epoxy can be melted. Rotor/armature air gap too * large. Rotor/armature air gap too * large. Rivets or springs broken. Key missing. Armature could be warped because of heat due to slippage. This means it will pull in, but will slip when a load is supplied. Clutch should show signs of heat. If voltage is going to the clutch, but the clutch will still not engage. Clutch engages, but load will not engage. *PTO Clutch/Brakes Only *Mobile Clutches Only Clutch Will Not Engage continued: Electromagnetic Clutches & Brakes Troubleshooting Guide www.jbj.co.uk/electromagnetic-clutches.html 57 #DriveLineHarmony
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